Liquid Sunshine= St. Luce doesn't need anymore

It wasn’t an easy last four weeks at site. We have been receiving hard rains and a strong northern wind has made it difficult to fish. No fish = no money = no loaka (side dish). This means for most people just a bowl of white/brown rice. But even rice has become less available because of a dramatic increase in price over the last four weeks. When I fist got to site a cup of Malagasy red rice was 300Ar, now that price is 400Ar and likely to keep going up. This may not seem like much, but when you have a large family that eats 8-10 cups a day, it starts to add up. I guess it’s similar to the increase in food prices experienced in the US (the end of cheap oil = the end of cheap food). Let’s just say we have all been eating a lot more Cassava.
Enjoy!

7-10-08
The Poor as Consumers?—A Seachange in Thinking

Awhile back (about 3 weeks) I got to witness the arrival of the Protector Mobile-a condom education
Vehicle funded by PSI (Population Services International). The men working for PSI greeted and identified me as Peace Corps before I could say a word (sometimes I forget how much I standout).

They didn’t waste anytime and quickly set up a pair of speakers on the roof of their SUV, opened a few boxes in the back, and than to my amazement jumped back inside the vehicle. ‘Strange’—I thought to myself. ‘How effective can they educate from the comfort of the driver and passenger seats?’
Mahagaga zaho-boy was I in for a surprise.

First came the music, creating a bit of excitement. Then came the announcement. I understood every fourth word, but the smiles said it all. A line began to from which quickly became dysfunctional as people stormed the passenger side door with 100Ar in hand. People were eagerly paying 100Ar for a condom-the incentive? An opportunity to win a ‘Protector’ hat, wallet, condom holder, and t-shirt. The shock was that people with little were willing to pay….By creating a game and charging 100Ar, PSI managed to assign value to an object that otherwise would have been valueless to an uneducated individual. (note: winning the lottery only granted you an opportunity to answer questions on the topic of safe sex/condom use-only when answered correctly would people be given prizes).

However, if you put a condom in the hands of a small child it quickly becomes transformed into a balloon, a sling shot, or enjoyed as a chew toy (remind anyone else of the movie Coneheads?)

7-13-09
The Ocean Claims Two

(that morning) As I write this I know very little about what’s going on. Cries echo throughout the village and a large group of people have gathered at the house down the road. My assumption is that a death has occurred—but whom? I don’t know… I walked past to see if I could find someone who could explain what’s going on, what happened….A gloom has fallen over the village. The usual joyful eyes of playful children have been replaced with water filled eyes and a sorrow demeanor. I’ve decided to return to my house and keep my distance.

I really dislike this feeling a mixture of isolation, confusion, sorrow, and loneliness. The cold dampness of the day accompanied with a light drizzle only adds to the mood.

(that afternoon) The ocean claimed two lives-a capsized laka in a rough ocean is a dangerous situation even for a skilled swimmer. One was family of Sosony & Kolastant. I don’t know him well other than the daily ‘Hello’ and the one afternoon we spent together talking about fishing and building lobster traps. He leaves behind four small children.

Its not clear now who the second victim is, but tomorrow I will pay my respects in Malagasy custom to both families (mamangy)

When I was in Alaska (with AmeriCorps) I spent my 4th of July in a Park with some locals from Seaward, Alaska. A few co-workers and I became good friends rather quickly with one ‘local’ in particular and the following couple of nights we invited him to spend his evenings at our campsite near Exit Glacier. One evening after hanging out and indulging in a few drinks (myself not included-because of exhaustion from work that day), our friend got in his car and drove home from our campsite for the last time. That night he flipped his car along the dark road back into town-killing himself on impact.

My experience with death is limited, but both experiences stir-up the same mixed-up batch of emotions. Both individuals were not close enough to be unbearably painful, but close enough to feel the discomfort and share the pain experienced by others-friends/family.

7-16-08
What…?

A few times throughout each week I have moments where I think to myself…’’What the hell am I doing?’’
When I first arrived in Madagascar they were much more frequent, but as I adapt and the ‘abnormal’ becomes ‘normal’ these sudden conscious moments, epiphanies, or awakenings become less apparent during the hustle of everyday activity. An example…..


Yesterday morning as people awoke from the events of the night before (when someone dies its custom to have a wake-no sleep, lots of booze and singing). I noticed the zebu (think bull) across the road was missing. I didn’t think anything of it until that afternoon when I got a knock on my door and was handed two large slabs of zebu meat (still warm).
As an advocate for ‘local food’ my first thought was-‘wow, now that’s local.’ My second thought-‘what am I going to do with all this meat?’


7-20-08
‘’You are the sun; I am the moon; You are the words; I am the tone; Play me…..’’

Hah! I couldn’t think of a title and I just heard Mr. Neil Diamond on the radio (you would not believe the excitement this man generates-and its not just middle/older aged women).

Today as I was shifting rice (removing hulls and rocks-the sand unfortunately stays). I was thinking about some of the things I’ve become really good at over the past 3 months. Here’s a quick list (a good exercise).

1-Shifting Rice: After learning the proper way to use the shohafa, I’m getting better, almost around 30 mins for 3 cups.

2- I can clean a fish pretty darn well- not bad considering the most exposure I got to the sea and its wonderful bounty growing up was the lobster tank at the Pathmark down the street.

3-To my amazement things are growing well in my garden—True, I did volunteer on an organic farm and was a member of a CSA (community supported agriculture farm), but its still like having volunteered with habitat for humanity a few times and than told that you need to build a house—I’ve been learning a lot.

The truth is that the hour/30mins a day spent shifting rice is my least favorite time because its easy for the mind to wander and thoughts of homesickness, doubts about work and/or being productive easily creep into the forefront of thought.

No worries, for every valley has two peaks! …..Neil Diamond….hah!


7/23/08
‘’No...no…its clear to me’’

‘’What is Development? When does someone become Developed’’ Maka asked me in his broken English as we huddled around my world map while sitting on the floor of my house.

I speak English with Maka twice a week and he’s been a huge help with understanding and making sense of my new community and new environment.


When Maka asked me both those questions today images raced through my head-tall buildings, paved roads, industrial farms, people working assembly lines, Jared Diamond (this one a bit odd, but if you read the book Guns, Germs, and Steel you’d know why-he was asked a similar question by a New Guinean friend). I didn’t know where to begin? Is it even possible to explain with a limited vocabulary? The development sector isn’t even sure how development should be defined. I looked development up in my dictionary, read it to him and I wrote out three works: Happy, Healthy, and Productive. I tried to explain that while it’s easy for an outsider to think that St. Luce needs help in all three of these areas and that it is obvious from my perspective (living here for 3 months)-people are happy (despite the conditions) as well as the most productive people I have ever met.

In essence, I told him that it wasn't clear when someone reaches the point of ‘Developed’

I kept trying to explain that it isn’t clear and he kept saying ‘’no…no…its clear to me.’’ Answering his own question, ‘’I think people are ‘developed’ when they wash their hands, they don’t drink [alcohol], they don’t go to the bathroom on the beach….no…no…its clear to me.’’

The brilliance of an eager mind and the blissfulness of ignorance....a priceless moment….

7-26-08
A Cool Roof?

Last time I was in Fort Dauphin, I was with some fellow volunteers from throughout southern Madagascar watching a movie (Transformers) on a portable DVD player (The joyful wonders of the 21st century!). When out of the corner of my eye I saw a mouse scurry under a pile of books on the floor. At which point someone (I will not name-no not me) screamed. As you can imagine conversation quickly turned to all the critter encounters we have all experienced. I told the story of the rat that tormented me for two weeks, while scavenging around my house for food and built a nest in my thatched roof—at which point someone thought it was cool that I even had a thatched roof. I had never really thought about my roof as being ‘cool’ and I guess it does fit with the over romanticized image many (including myself) have before applying/committing to Peace Corps. But, the more I thought about it the more I would rather my roof was made of something different.
My roof is its own ecosystem with all sorts of things living and falling from it. Just the other day while reading a book a lizard fell on my lap (its home to roaches, some giant cricket like creature, and the recent discovery of scorpions!). When the wind blows hard it likes to cover everything with bits of palm.
No….my roof isn’t all that ‘cool.’


7-30-08
Feeling Uncomfortable—could this be my most effective tool?

The ‘stare-down,’ its defensive in American culture. When people walk by and continually stare at me without saying a word-well it gets old and becomes REALLY irritating. Yet, it’s this felling of ‘uncomfort’ that could prove to be my most effective tool as a volunteer. People stare because they are curious-curiosity means interest, and interest breeds opportunity………right?


8-3-08
Coming Up For Air

Did you ever see the movie the Poseidon Adventure? (the original ). Its one of those movies that can easily be found on a Saturday afternoon on TNT or USA. The main idea is that an ocean liner becomes flipped at sea trapping its passengers inside while submerged underwater. The story follows the adventures of a small group of passengers as they struggle to survive. One scene in particular requires the group of characters to swim submerged underwater for an extended period of time. Some jump right in and take the lead, but many of the movie’s characters have doubts, fears, and some even need to be persuaded and encouraged to make the risky plunge into the dark unknown.

This scene sums up my first 3 months at site. In many ways I feel like I’ve been holding my breath, maneuvering around countless hazards, trying to make sense of a very unfamiliar place. Constantly confronting continual doubts-am I doing enough?-am I moving fast enough?-am I going to run out of air? (Keeping with the analogy)

When I joined Peace Corps, I was given some of the best advice form a volunteer who served in New Guinea and Madagascar (helped start the SED program here). After training she told us that ‘‘this experience is ours and ours alone-no two PC experiences are close to being alike.’’

When a fellow volunteer from the south made a surprise visit my first week at site, I remember asking him how he handled the constant ‘ups’ and ‘downs’ experienced daily. He paused, gave a little laugh and told me-‘’You’ve gotta figure that one out of your own…’’ That’s what my first 3 months have been-‘figuring things out on my own.’

I now head to Tana in a few days to take in a breath of fresh air, recharge, and come back with fresh eyes and hopefully new ideas. There is one thing I am curious to discover…In the movie not everyone emerged from the swim—I hope my fellow volunteers and friends were able to beat those odds.

Thanks all for now