‘Decision made to suspend PC Madagascar. Very sad. Process of leaving will be lengthy. Prepare tonight for consolidation and onward as flights are confirmed. STAY IN SITE. For now we must be able to find you!’
I read the text message last night as I was eating one my favorite loaka (side dishes) in Madagascar. As you can imagine my food quickly became tasteless.
As I tossed and turned all night, I continually had to reread the message on my phone…check that I didn’t dream it, make sure I understood it, the ‘reality’ of the situation was slowly creeping in.
I can’t say I have many regrets in my shortly lived life. Maybe I wish I played a particular sport, had the courage to ask out a particular girl, or wish that at times I pursued a particular path. But the decision that was made for me only a few hours ago will haunt me for the unforeseeable future. Here’s why…
The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly: The Peace Corps Experience
The Good—I think I do a good job summing up all the ‘good’ under my last post and throughout this blog. The ‘good’ is found in the lives you touch, the smiles you bring, and the relationships you build. It’s an indescribable experience, a bond that is shared with only other PC volunteers who are serving or have served, an experience that could never be captured in just a few words.
The Bad—I have also touched on throughout this blog. It’s the homesickness, the heat, the rain, the mold, the food (or lack of), the rats, the infections and persistent infections, and the leaky roofs. It’s the ‘labels’ you are given, the stereotypes you try desperately to break, and the harassment you endure.
We all know that we need the ‘bad.’ It compliments the ‘good.’ Without the ‘Bad,’ the ‘Good’ would never be as sweet, beautiful, or nearly as rewarding.
The Ugly—the ‘Ugly’ I hate. One joins Peace Corps naively overlooking it. I joined Peace Corps knowing I was in for a marathon. I endured training—pushing my comfort level beyond its limits. I knew this course was going to be hard, uncomfortable, and at times brutally unbearable. But nothing is worse than falling short of an overarching goal—crossing the finish line. To stop in the middle of a race and forced to walk off the course…it’s the feelings of defeat, humiliation, and failure all entwined.
The Bitterness of this Experience
Thoughts of my experience here in Madagascar will forever be sweet—this was a life enriching experience. But that sweetness will also be associated with a sharp bitterness. My community took me in as a ‘student,’ they shared their culture, beliefs, hopes, and fears. We laughed together, grieved together. We experienced the cold and the heat, times of plenty and moments of scarcity. They provided me with so much and in the end I feel I have done little to return the favor. This is a common feeling, so I have been told. Returned PC volunteers would agree— all volunteers get more out of their experience than they could ever have given in return. But my sharp bitterness isn’t just that. It’s rooted in the ‘if only…’ and the ‘what if…’ Because I have been forced off the course prematurely, I will never know my full potential as a Peace Corps Volunteer—it’s been taken. I will never know what obstacles I might have faced or what challenges I may have needed to be overcome. Ultimately, I will also never know the potential of my impact. What I could have built on—the relationships I worked so hard build and the trust I managed to create. All those lives I could have touched.
…and for all that Sainte Luce, I am sorry!
Mar 12, 2009
Mar 9, 2009
Welcome to Town with a Smile
It’s nice to leave site and return to town armed with a list of things to do (sounds crazy…but its as it should be). Usually when I go to town it’s an orchestrated event, but you still feel like you only accomplish half of the planned ‘to do’ list you bring with you.
I got a call last week asking if I wanted to have dinner with the US Ambassador who was coming to the Ft. Dauphin area and was hoping to dine with some PCVs on Tuesday night. The sad part is (although expected / we are still experience some political ‘turbulence’) the ambassador had to cancel, but a group of representatives from the US Embassy are still coming down and they will still be taking us out to eat as planned, which is great! We are going to dined and (maybe) wined at the nicest restaurant in town!
…So I got that going for me…
As for the current political ‘turbulence.’ Marc R. (the President) has called for an end on all anti-‘his’government rallies and has started enforcing police blockades around Tana. I’ve also heard some talk about a Military commander who has stayed ‘neutral’ thus far (not excepting bribes and not picking a side) was ‘forcefully’ replaced by the President. Whether it is true and what it would mean remains unknown.
Anyway, negations looked promising for a while, but fell apart two weeks ago. The opposition looked like they were loosing steam, but periodically regain momentum. It’s a complicated struggle for power—and when I think I get a handle on what is going on, I get thrown a loop. So, I’ve partly given up.
Life in Sainte Luce is NORMAL. You wouldn’t even know anything is going on—apart from the slight increase on some commodity goods. Overall people in Sainte Luce, for the most part, don’t care.
Remember that Madagascar is a large island (the width of the state of Pennsylvania and the length of New York City to Miami) Everything that’s going on is taking place in and around Tana (i.e. North Carolina) and Ft. Dauphin (i.e. Florida) remains calm. We are all still on ‘Standfast,’ which means daily communication with Peace Corps Staff.
Enjoy!
From a still VERY safe part of the island
Brendan
1/22/09
It’s nice to be missed…
I think it was clear to a lot of people that I almost left. ‘‘You don’t know what you got till its gone’’ and it is applicable on both ends here. To be almost robbed of this experience has forever changed my outlook of it and I think has also rekindled community interest in what I’m doing here and who I am. I have been approached about seeds, tress, gardening advice all over the last day or two. I’ve replanted 15 Moringa trees near the Elementary school with a friend who was eager to help, all while spending the majority of my time away from St. Luce and working with the community north of me helping to plant 24,000 trees.
I’m writing this because I have hit a transition point in my service. Finished and through is the ‘cultural’ adjustment and awkwardness. I can finally turn the page on ‘survival’ mode and focus on the ‘improval’ part of my stay. This is my opportunity to make small fundamental changes in individual lives. I have been in country about a year now. That’s one year spent out of my comfort zone and a whole year away from family and friends. I’m not sure what this next year will bring. I do know its not going to be an easy ride, but committed and determined I am. I have started something here and I intend to finish it. The second leg of this journey beings today and I’ll start by going to church (its Sunday) and greet people with my usual smile and cheer. I am a firm believer that bringing a smile to a face is development!
Undated
Not bad.
‘‘Not a bad way to start your day..huh..Brendan?’’
‘What’s that?’’ I ask as I take off my bike helmet.
‘Biking on a dirt road in the middle of Madagascar’’
‘Hah..Yea, I cant complain.’’ I reply with a grin.
It’s easy to get lost out here. To forget about where you are and what you are doing at any given moment. We all do it…and I find myself slowly slipping back into the old habit I tried to leave behind in the States.
Every night as I cook dinner I have the luxury of watching the sun fall behind the mountains that hug the south-eastern cost of Madagascar. Sometimes as the sun sets the sky becomes illuminated with every shade of pink, red, and orange imaginable. It’s an amazing way to close out a day.
Recently I have had the pleasure of waking up before the sun and hoping on my bike and riding 8k to the area my NGO and the local community are planting trees. I get to watch as the sun creeps above the horizon and burns off the morning dew. It’s also an amazing way to start the day.
That’s right my friend…this shit is hard, no doubt, but honestly I am in no position to complain.
1/24/09
Happy ‘I have been in Madagascar for a whole year’ day!
One word… ‘‘crazy’’
1/26/09
Come and knock on my door…
I heard the knock on the door while cutting up the squash I picked form my garden (squash and a watermelon are all I’ve been able to grow in the last few hot dry months). The knock was followed by a question and I immediately knew the voice. It was Ben Ombie (chief of the village) and he wanted me to follow him with by camera, while pointing in the direction of ‘downtown’ Ambaondrika. I say sure, grab my things and briskly walk with him down the road and into a crowd of gathering people. At first I thought he wanted me to take his picture, but the site of the crowd made me a bit confused. ‘Maybe he wants me to take a picture of everyone’ I thought to myself. As we approached the crowd parted and it all suddenly became clear.
At the feet of the awaiting crowd laying on some banana leaves was the carcass of tow conjoined baby calves—two heads, two sets of front legs all sharing a single torso and two hind legs.
The crowd was continually scanning my face trying to read my reaction. I was continually scanning the faces of the crowd trying to read their reaction. Not knowing what to say, I paused and let the situation soak in. No one seemed frightened or scared, which I can only assume is good—this isn’t viewed as some kind of horrible omen.
‘‘Wow!’’ I said in gasy, ‘‘that’s a surprise.’’
I examine it for a few minutes.
After which I snapping two pictures (one with Ben Ombie), I turned to the guy next to me and asked (jokingly) if he was gonna eat it. He smiled and took a few steps backwards with his hands in the air saying ‘‘No, No, No.’’ We both smiled and everyone laughed.
I thought for a brief moment about picking up a stick and drawling pictures in the sand to explain how this type of thing happens. But, I quickly remembered the last time I tried to explain something through illustration (on the topic of ‘what my dad does for a living,’ which quickly morphed into the topic of ‘specialization.’) it did more harm than good—causing mass confusion. So, I let this opportunity for a lesson in human reproduction and anatomy pass me by.
As for the picture…as word got out that I took it people have been asking to buy a copy. That’s right! BUY a copy…slowly we are working away from a mentality of ‘give me,’ to one of ‘show me, teach me, and sell me.’
Undated
Two Moments…
‘Brendan!’
I hear the cry from outside my house. I recognized the sound of the voice immediately.
‘E!’ I yelled. I dropped my notebook on the floor and peeked out the doorway of my house.
‘I haven’t seen you in a long time!’ I shout from the door.
‘Where have you been!’ he replies with a smile.
I walk outside and shake his hand with a smile that had to rival his. He puts his hand on my shoulder.
‘Salama!’ another voice cries out form the road.
Oh..What’s new!’ I yell back with equal excitement as we both walk towards the road.
All three of us chatted a few minutes; I explained where I have been and gave both men some water, all while sporting a big smile the whole time.
I don’t need to write anymore…I think I captured it…
This is what Peace Corps is all about… Bridging two very different worlds.
I spot Seringoty as he walks home from work. (he’s a guard for the Rio Tinto research camp).
‘Going home?’ I ask.
‘How are you?’ he replies ‘I haven’t seen you in awhile.’
‘All is good!’ I reply. ‘Its going to rain!’ I point to the dark clouds in the horizon. ‘We need it, its hasn’t rained in awhile, its good for the cassava, the garden, and all the trees.’
‘But your house leaks’ he replies with a smirk as he points to my roof and continues to walk by.
Damn…he’s right!
I wrote this awhile ago and never posted it:
I think its appropriate keeping with the ‘smile’ theme
1/28/09
‘‘Yes, We Can’’
‘‘What do you do in St. Luce?’’ I was recently asked by a tourist.
‘‘I live here,’’ I replied.
‘‘and do..?’’
I once heard a story of a PCV who worked as an environment volunteer in southern Madagascar and was asked a similar question. The volunteer didn’t respond. He simply smiled, turned to the Malagasy boy next to him and slowly extended his clenched fist out in front of him. The boy responded by doing the same and as their fists met; it brought a smile on his face that stretched from ear to ear. The volunteer didn’t say a word; he didn’t need to, because the smile he created said it all.
A lot of volunteers are self-conscious about their work, and I am defiantly among them. As a volunteer you are continually frustrated, you often feel like you are doing nothing, or working hard and producing little if any tangible result. Personally, I am not sure if I will ever be completely comfortable answering the above question. But over the past few weeks it has been made clear what a big part of my job here is and I’d like to share it.
I am providing the people of my community with what I have had throughout my brief life. Whenever I thought I couldn’t, I always had someone telling me that I could. It’s called encouragement!
I am a motivator, a cheerleader, a generator of laughter and smiles (a clown? Is there a better word?). You could say I am the Barrak Obama of my community. I tell people that they ‘can.’ ‘‘Yes, you can’’ and ‘‘yes, we can’’ are words I find myself continually saying. I might teach someone about how to make a cook stove, how to plant a tree, how to grow a new variety of vegetable, or about the nutritional value found in Moringa leaves, but it is never without instilling a little bit of ‘hope’ through encouragement in people. This is done by continually reminding them that they are the ones building the stove, planting the tree, and growing the vegetable. Maybe that’s why I have trouble answering the question above, I never see myself as part of the equation. My advice to other volunteers…get your pom-poms out! I don’t leave home without mine.
I got a call last week asking if I wanted to have dinner with the US Ambassador who was coming to the Ft. Dauphin area and was hoping to dine with some PCVs on Tuesday night. The sad part is (although expected / we are still experience some political ‘turbulence’) the ambassador had to cancel, but a group of representatives from the US Embassy are still coming down and they will still be taking us out to eat as planned, which is great! We are going to dined and (maybe) wined at the nicest restaurant in town!
…So I got that going for me…
As for the current political ‘turbulence.’ Marc R. (the President) has called for an end on all anti-‘his’government rallies and has started enforcing police blockades around Tana. I’ve also heard some talk about a Military commander who has stayed ‘neutral’ thus far (not excepting bribes and not picking a side) was ‘forcefully’ replaced by the President. Whether it is true and what it would mean remains unknown.
Anyway, negations looked promising for a while, but fell apart two weeks ago. The opposition looked like they were loosing steam, but periodically regain momentum. It’s a complicated struggle for power—and when I think I get a handle on what is going on, I get thrown a loop. So, I’ve partly given up.
Life in Sainte Luce is NORMAL. You wouldn’t even know anything is going on—apart from the slight increase on some commodity goods. Overall people in Sainte Luce, for the most part, don’t care.
Remember that Madagascar is a large island (the width of the state of Pennsylvania and the length of New York City to Miami) Everything that’s going on is taking place in and around Tana (i.e. North Carolina) and Ft. Dauphin (i.e. Florida) remains calm. We are all still on ‘Standfast,’ which means daily communication with Peace Corps Staff.
Enjoy!
From a still VERY safe part of the island
Brendan
1/22/09
It’s nice to be missed…
I think it was clear to a lot of people that I almost left. ‘‘You don’t know what you got till its gone’’ and it is applicable on both ends here. To be almost robbed of this experience has forever changed my outlook of it and I think has also rekindled community interest in what I’m doing here and who I am. I have been approached about seeds, tress, gardening advice all over the last day or two. I’ve replanted 15 Moringa trees near the Elementary school with a friend who was eager to help, all while spending the majority of my time away from St. Luce and working with the community north of me helping to plant 24,000 trees.
I’m writing this because I have hit a transition point in my service. Finished and through is the ‘cultural’ adjustment and awkwardness. I can finally turn the page on ‘survival’ mode and focus on the ‘improval’ part of my stay. This is my opportunity to make small fundamental changes in individual lives. I have been in country about a year now. That’s one year spent out of my comfort zone and a whole year away from family and friends. I’m not sure what this next year will bring. I do know its not going to be an easy ride, but committed and determined I am. I have started something here and I intend to finish it. The second leg of this journey beings today and I’ll start by going to church (its Sunday) and greet people with my usual smile and cheer. I am a firm believer that bringing a smile to a face is development!
Undated
Not bad.
‘‘Not a bad way to start your day..huh..Brendan?’’
‘What’s that?’’ I ask as I take off my bike helmet.
‘Biking on a dirt road in the middle of Madagascar’’
‘Hah..Yea, I cant complain.’’ I reply with a grin.
It’s easy to get lost out here. To forget about where you are and what you are doing at any given moment. We all do it…and I find myself slowly slipping back into the old habit I tried to leave behind in the States.
Every night as I cook dinner I have the luxury of watching the sun fall behind the mountains that hug the south-eastern cost of Madagascar. Sometimes as the sun sets the sky becomes illuminated with every shade of pink, red, and orange imaginable. It’s an amazing way to close out a day.
Recently I have had the pleasure of waking up before the sun and hoping on my bike and riding 8k to the area my NGO and the local community are planting trees. I get to watch as the sun creeps above the horizon and burns off the morning dew. It’s also an amazing way to start the day.
That’s right my friend…this shit is hard, no doubt, but honestly I am in no position to complain.
1/24/09
Happy ‘I have been in Madagascar for a whole year’ day!
One word… ‘‘crazy’’
1/26/09
Come and knock on my door…
I heard the knock on the door while cutting up the squash I picked form my garden (squash and a watermelon are all I’ve been able to grow in the last few hot dry months). The knock was followed by a question and I immediately knew the voice. It was Ben Ombie (chief of the village) and he wanted me to follow him with by camera, while pointing in the direction of ‘downtown’ Ambaondrika. I say sure, grab my things and briskly walk with him down the road and into a crowd of gathering people. At first I thought he wanted me to take his picture, but the site of the crowd made me a bit confused. ‘Maybe he wants me to take a picture of everyone’ I thought to myself. As we approached the crowd parted and it all suddenly became clear.
At the feet of the awaiting crowd laying on some banana leaves was the carcass of tow conjoined baby calves—two heads, two sets of front legs all sharing a single torso and two hind legs.
The crowd was continually scanning my face trying to read my reaction. I was continually scanning the faces of the crowd trying to read their reaction. Not knowing what to say, I paused and let the situation soak in. No one seemed frightened or scared, which I can only assume is good—this isn’t viewed as some kind of horrible omen.
‘‘Wow!’’ I said in gasy, ‘‘that’s a surprise.’’
I examine it for a few minutes.
After which I snapping two pictures (one with Ben Ombie), I turned to the guy next to me and asked (jokingly) if he was gonna eat it. He smiled and took a few steps backwards with his hands in the air saying ‘‘No, No, No.’’ We both smiled and everyone laughed.
I thought for a brief moment about picking up a stick and drawling pictures in the sand to explain how this type of thing happens. But, I quickly remembered the last time I tried to explain something through illustration (on the topic of ‘what my dad does for a living,’ which quickly morphed into the topic of ‘specialization.’) it did more harm than good—causing mass confusion. So, I let this opportunity for a lesson in human reproduction and anatomy pass me by.
As for the picture…as word got out that I took it people have been asking to buy a copy. That’s right! BUY a copy…slowly we are working away from a mentality of ‘give me,’ to one of ‘show me, teach me, and sell me.’
Undated
Two Moments…
‘Brendan!’
I hear the cry from outside my house. I recognized the sound of the voice immediately.
‘E!’ I yelled. I dropped my notebook on the floor and peeked out the doorway of my house.
‘I haven’t seen you in a long time!’ I shout from the door.
‘Where have you been!’ he replies with a smile.
I walk outside and shake his hand with a smile that had to rival his. He puts his hand on my shoulder.
‘Salama!’ another voice cries out form the road.
Oh..What’s new!’ I yell back with equal excitement as we both walk towards the road.
All three of us chatted a few minutes; I explained where I have been and gave both men some water, all while sporting a big smile the whole time.
I don’t need to write anymore…I think I captured it…
This is what Peace Corps is all about… Bridging two very different worlds.
I spot Seringoty as he walks home from work. (he’s a guard for the Rio Tinto research camp).
‘Going home?’ I ask.
‘How are you?’ he replies ‘I haven’t seen you in awhile.’
‘All is good!’ I reply. ‘Its going to rain!’ I point to the dark clouds in the horizon. ‘We need it, its hasn’t rained in awhile, its good for the cassava, the garden, and all the trees.’
‘But your house leaks’ he replies with a smirk as he points to my roof and continues to walk by.
Damn…he’s right!
I wrote this awhile ago and never posted it:
I think its appropriate keeping with the ‘smile’ theme
1/28/09
‘‘Yes, We Can’’
‘‘What do you do in St. Luce?’’ I was recently asked by a tourist.
‘‘I live here,’’ I replied.
‘‘and do..?’’
I once heard a story of a PCV who worked as an environment volunteer in southern Madagascar and was asked a similar question. The volunteer didn’t respond. He simply smiled, turned to the Malagasy boy next to him and slowly extended his clenched fist out in front of him. The boy responded by doing the same and as their fists met; it brought a smile on his face that stretched from ear to ear. The volunteer didn’t say a word; he didn’t need to, because the smile he created said it all.
A lot of volunteers are self-conscious about their work, and I am defiantly among them. As a volunteer you are continually frustrated, you often feel like you are doing nothing, or working hard and producing little if any tangible result. Personally, I am not sure if I will ever be completely comfortable answering the above question. But over the past few weeks it has been made clear what a big part of my job here is and I’d like to share it.
I am providing the people of my community with what I have had throughout my brief life. Whenever I thought I couldn’t, I always had someone telling me that I could. It’s called encouragement!
I am a motivator, a cheerleader, a generator of laughter and smiles (a clown? Is there a better word?). You could say I am the Barrak Obama of my community. I tell people that they ‘can.’ ‘‘Yes, you can’’ and ‘‘yes, we can’’ are words I find myself continually saying. I might teach someone about how to make a cook stove, how to plant a tree, how to grow a new variety of vegetable, or about the nutritional value found in Moringa leaves, but it is never without instilling a little bit of ‘hope’ through encouragement in people. This is done by continually reminding them that they are the ones building the stove, planting the tree, and growing the vegetable. Maybe that’s why I have trouble answering the question above, I never see myself as part of the equation. My advice to other volunteers…get your pom-poms out! I don’t leave home without mine.
Feb 15, 2009
Photos!
Thank you Jake for turning these photos into Jpegs.
Vacation! A little coffee or beer (depends on the time of day this was taken)
Being a good PCV and learning about rice farming during IST (I live in a fishing village down by the sea, unfortunatly rice doesnt grow all that well)
href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCI38T8XvDdNEN0YK-V_x6GeKPiCDFpfpLhFNrBiCkkmNjd_GgE9uo-OBXNLTTYF_q81TC2xzXg4fJOz7iAHKWglyGeoeX8wRS3VNLklge6dCsO74crN48z-KCeEvULle6qr-AFrfuq6w/s1600-h/IMG_3750-1.JPG">
Look at the good looking guy! Sosony and his wife Delna showing off the new TV and sound system (I think I posted about this early on)
href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSDZa1sPOyC2joslz211f8MlMufqtF7haWlvQx_iKNN9G5A8OJam36QmeA_RA8TxbLlXu8iaZ-8eVuxyG5p6jmtScmCticcLChEKAYQ2tpGtH5csVBZvwaNXCs0DrzfyfeUXB6PJLvr8/s1600-h/IMG_0337-1.JPG">
Center is my good friend Kolasy and on his left is Fabrees (both took me fishing)
The day I became a volunteer and blue was the 'in' color
My Banking Family
Friends and village workers of the World Food Progam. They cook for kids every day of the week. Nice Hat!
Bruce Lee...oh boy..Watch out!
Vacation! A little coffee or beer (depends on the time of day this was taken)
Being a good PCV and learning about rice farming during IST (I live in a fishing village down by the sea, unfortunatly rice doesnt grow all that well)
href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCI38T8XvDdNEN0YK-V_x6GeKPiCDFpfpLhFNrBiCkkmNjd_GgE9uo-OBXNLTTYF_q81TC2xzXg4fJOz7iAHKWglyGeoeX8wRS3VNLklge6dCsO74crN48z-KCeEvULle6qr-AFrfuq6w/s1600-h/IMG_3750-1.JPG">
Look at the good looking guy! Sosony and his wife Delna showing off the new TV and sound system (I think I posted about this early on)
href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSDZa1sPOyC2joslz211f8MlMufqtF7haWlvQx_iKNN9G5A8OJam36QmeA_RA8TxbLlXu8iaZ-8eVuxyG5p6jmtScmCticcLChEKAYQ2tpGtH5csVBZvwaNXCs0DrzfyfeUXB6PJLvr8/s1600-h/IMG_0337-1.JPG">
Center is my good friend Kolasy and on his left is Fabrees (both took me fishing)
The day I became a volunteer and blue was the 'in' color
My Banking Family
Friends and village workers of the World Food Progam. They cook for kids every day of the week. Nice Hat!
Bruce Lee...oh boy..Watch out!
Roller Coaster Ride
‘Be packed and ready to go, you should be out of here by Saturday.’ This was what we were all told this time last week, but as the week unfolded and the violence that everyone expected to happen never did (with the exception of a Police shooting in Tulear over food aid) we could all get to go back to our sites.
We have all been told that if today is ‘uneventful’ we can be released from ‘consolidation’ and return to our sites under ‘stand fast’ (or alert) which means we would need to be in contact with a PCO daily. Regions that have experienced violence will have individual sites assessed by Peace Corps to determine safety and security.
This has been one crazy roller coaster ride; it’s hard to be mentally ready for any eventual outcome. Stress levels are high; the mind is continually turning working out possible outcomes. We arrived two weeks ago—at first we dismissed our gathering as Peace Corps being overly cautious (life was normal down here and continues to be). Then we saw the damage from the riots. Buildings looted, burned, and the charred bodies of looters from a store that caught fire. We saw pictures of the demonstrations that were taking place and knew this was not going to be resolved quickly. We were told that Peace Corps couldn’t keep us consolidated forever—we thought we would go home. But the first week seemed to be calm and the gatherings by the opposition became smaller—we thought we would be back at site by the end of the h Saturday took a tragic turn, demonstrators marched to the Presidential Palace and the Presidential Guard opened fire on the crowd killing many (number killed changes depending the source and many are still missing, Amnesty International is calling for an investigation)—we all thought we would be out by Tuesday. Tuesday was suppose to be the installation of the ‘traditional’ government, the opposition leader and his appointed Ministers were going to take power from the President. But Tuesday came and went, with peaceful demonstrations. We waited for two days with little news. Finally Peace Corps told us that Saturday was the day. Depending how Saturday would unfold would determine our future here in Madagascar. But Saturday also was uneventful—two rival demonstrations only a half mile apart, both peaceful. The twists, the turns, and the continual stress of ‘unknowing’ has caused some volunteers to leave or finish service early. Many of us had to say ‘goodbye’ to PCV friends over the past two weeks.
Today is Monday—some say today will be ‘the day’ the opposition installs self-appointed Ministers in offices around Tana (the capitol), others think the opposition has lost its ‘power’ and the movement is slowly fizzling out.
As always we don’t know what the future will bring….
What is known….the damage has already been done! Foreign investment will suffer; the degree of which is still unknown. Goods are slowly rising in price, sugar is becoming scarce in Ft. Dauphin, and the price of oil and rice has gone up as well. Tourism is likely to suffer—travel warnings have been posted by the English and the French (Americans as well, but the American tourism market here is small). This is also happening at a ‘bad’ time of year—not that there is ever a ‘good’ time for a political crisis. But southern Madagascar is currently suffering from a drought and Madagascar has been continually getting hit by Cyclones, 3 in the last 2 months, which destroy homes and ruin crops. Here is an excerpt from the UN’s most recent Situation Report which highlighted serious future concerns.
From that report:
"The continuing political crisis is likely to compound the fight for daily survival of the two thirds of the Malagasy population living in poverty, risking pushing many even further over the edge. As the crisis spreads into other major cities and towns of the country, it is expected to generate equal humanitarian challenges.
The UN Country Team is not only concerned about the immediate humanitarian impact, but also that Madagascar is likely to find itself with weakened capacity to respond to a number of humanitarian challenges, either current or lying ahead, including the cyclones, floods and drought, to which the country is excessively prone"
It is apparent we are all needed here more than ever…
What is also apparent— this is far from being over…if we do return to sites I wouldn’t be surprised if I find myself in this situation again before the end of my service (I have a year left)—People here seem to be fed-up or at least the people I speak with.
That’s all for now and I hope my next post will be a month from now reporting on my struggles and triumphs with Malagasy culture, the world of development, my Moringa campaign and the Cook Stoves project.
I continue to be VERY safe (if I wasn’t I wouldn’t be here), thank you for all the thoughts and prayers!
Cheers!
We have all been told that if today is ‘uneventful’ we can be released from ‘consolidation’ and return to our sites under ‘stand fast’ (or alert) which means we would need to be in contact with a PCO daily. Regions that have experienced violence will have individual sites assessed by Peace Corps to determine safety and security.
This has been one crazy roller coaster ride; it’s hard to be mentally ready for any eventual outcome. Stress levels are high; the mind is continually turning working out possible outcomes. We arrived two weeks ago—at first we dismissed our gathering as Peace Corps being overly cautious (life was normal down here and continues to be). Then we saw the damage from the riots. Buildings looted, burned, and the charred bodies of looters from a store that caught fire. We saw pictures of the demonstrations that were taking place and knew this was not going to be resolved quickly. We were told that Peace Corps couldn’t keep us consolidated forever—we thought we would go home. But the first week seemed to be calm and the gatherings by the opposition became smaller—we thought we would be back at site by the end of the h Saturday took a tragic turn, demonstrators marched to the Presidential Palace and the Presidential Guard opened fire on the crowd killing many (number killed changes depending the source and many are still missing, Amnesty International is calling for an investigation)—we all thought we would be out by Tuesday. Tuesday was suppose to be the installation of the ‘traditional’ government, the opposition leader and his appointed Ministers were going to take power from the President. But Tuesday came and went, with peaceful demonstrations. We waited for two days with little news. Finally Peace Corps told us that Saturday was the day. Depending how Saturday would unfold would determine our future here in Madagascar. But Saturday also was uneventful—two rival demonstrations only a half mile apart, both peaceful. The twists, the turns, and the continual stress of ‘unknowing’ has caused some volunteers to leave or finish service early. Many of us had to say ‘goodbye’ to PCV friends over the past two weeks.
Today is Monday—some say today will be ‘the day’ the opposition installs self-appointed Ministers in offices around Tana (the capitol), others think the opposition has lost its ‘power’ and the movement is slowly fizzling out.
As always we don’t know what the future will bring….
What is known….the damage has already been done! Foreign investment will suffer; the degree of which is still unknown. Goods are slowly rising in price, sugar is becoming scarce in Ft. Dauphin, and the price of oil and rice has gone up as well. Tourism is likely to suffer—travel warnings have been posted by the English and the French (Americans as well, but the American tourism market here is small). This is also happening at a ‘bad’ time of year—not that there is ever a ‘good’ time for a political crisis. But southern Madagascar is currently suffering from a drought and Madagascar has been continually getting hit by Cyclones, 3 in the last 2 months, which destroy homes and ruin crops. Here is an excerpt from the UN’s most recent Situation Report which highlighted serious future concerns.
From that report:
"The continuing political crisis is likely to compound the fight for daily survival of the two thirds of the Malagasy population living in poverty, risking pushing many even further over the edge. As the crisis spreads into other major cities and towns of the country, it is expected to generate equal humanitarian challenges.
The UN Country Team is not only concerned about the immediate humanitarian impact, but also that Madagascar is likely to find itself with weakened capacity to respond to a number of humanitarian challenges, either current or lying ahead, including the cyclones, floods and drought, to which the country is excessively prone"
It is apparent we are all needed here more than ever…
What is also apparent— this is far from being over…if we do return to sites I wouldn’t be surprised if I find myself in this situation again before the end of my service (I have a year left)—People here seem to be fed-up or at least the people I speak with.
That’s all for now and I hope my next post will be a month from now reporting on my struggles and triumphs with Malagasy culture, the world of development, my Moringa campaign and the Cook Stoves project.
I continue to be VERY safe (if I wasn’t I wouldn’t be here), thank you for all the thoughts and prayers!
Cheers!
Feb 12, 2009
‘Fluid’
Our situation here is very ‘fluid.’ If you talked to me on Tuesday, I would have put money down on the fact that we would be leaving. But Tuesday (the day Andry was going to march around Tana and put his self-appointed ministers in office came and went). Yesterday (Wednesday) came and went with no issues. 25,000 people (or more depending on the source) gathered at a stadium peacefully in Tana to show support for the President (…or democracy).
For the most part, people here are sick of the President—but they also don’t want any more violence. As a ‘cryptic’ message stated from Peace Corps a week ago ‘Things continue to be fluid.’ Steve the Peace Corps Director of
With that said, we have been told that we cannot be ‘consolidated’ forever, which means Saturday is our ‘trigger’ day. If things remain calm, we could realistically go back to site and stay ‘on alert,’ but if things get remotely ‘ugly,’ we would be pulled out and the program here in
Of course I wouldn’t say it’s definite that I will still be here next week (things after all are ‘fluid’), but the only reason why I am still writing this post in Madagascar is because it’s still very much a possibility.
Just a little information on my state of mind:
Manahira walked down the street and greeted me with a smile. I’ve been held up in the hotel now for two weeks. My interaction with him brings mixed feelings. He tells me about his Moringa Tree—explaining how fast it’s been growing. We chat about how he hasn’t been able to teach the last week because of the ‘crisis’ (he’s the elementary school Teacher in Amboandrika and schools have been suspended). I ask about the condition of the sea in St. Luce, he reports that it’s been rough—no fish (we just had a cyclone) and the price of rice and cassava (the two food stables) have gone up dramatically. I tell him a little about my situation and encourage him to start adding the leaves of his Moringa tree to his side dishes (for nutrional value). I hope for the best by saying that I’ll see him again on Saturday in St. Luce, we shake hands and part-ways.
The question that keeps rolling through my mind…Is that the last time I will ever see that person (or in the case of Manahira, someone from my village)? It’s a joy to see people, but it is also a bit awkward and painful because you both don’t know what the future holds.
Here is what a friend told me two days ago. He served as a Peace Corps Volunteer here and extended twice (serving a total of four years). He is now teaching english for a local NGO.
‘’Brendan, I got lucky man.’’ He tells me over a Coke.
‘’We all want a nice experience, but mine was almost too nice. This is
I’m not sure why, but I do find some comfort in his words…
We wait, wait until Saturday…
Feb 8, 2009
The Rumor Mill
Remember the TV show ‘FACT or FICTION’ with that guy who played ‘No. 2’ from Star Trak as the host. …need I say more…..hah, enjoy!
I’m still safe, but my future here isn’t clear. Here are some news articles on what has been going on here.
http://english.china.com/zh_cn/news/international/11020308/20090207/15313669.html
http://news.yahoo.com/s/afp/20090208/wl_afp/madagascarpolitics_20090208210806
http://www.cnn.com/2009/WORLD/africa/02/08/madagascar.violence/index.html?section=cnn_latest
Fact or Fiction?
Why doesn’t Marc Ravalomanana have Andry Rajoelina killed or even arrested?
Good question…People say its because they are ‘related.’ Apparently Andry had a relationship with Marc’s daughter—in fact they have a child together, which means the Marc is the grandfather of Andry’s child. Andry’s been trying to gain acceptance/approval from his much wealthier and successful Father-in-law ever since (Andry was a poor no-body when he fell ‘in-love’ with Marc’s daughter—explains his determination). Friends here believe this story to be…FACT.
‘’Look how thin the President looks!’’
We heard this said last night when the President (Marc. R.) was giving a speech addressing the public about the now 28 dead and hundreds reported wounded. In fact, people have been saying that the President isn’t the President (i.e. the ‘real’ Marc R.). Marc R. is well educated and no idiot—after all he did build a national multi-million dollar dairy corporation, which he started by selling yogurt from a cart on the streets of Tana. The current Marc R. is actually his less successful younger brother, who secretly had the old Marc. R. assassinated and has taken over the role of President. Marc. R.’s younger brother did run in the Mayoral Race against Andry back in 2007 and he is still bitter about the loss—contributing to the explanation for the current situation the country finds itself in. Friends here aren’t sure about this one and are a little hesitant about claiming it to be true…….FICTION.
Stirring-up the Ethnic Pot
Andry Rajoelina appointed 43-year-old Zafitsimivalo Monja Roindefo, the son of a well-known Madagascan nationalist Monja Jaona, as prime minister of the transitional government on Saturday. Monja Roindefo and his father are Antondroy (a southern ethnic group) that represents some of the poorest people in Madagascar. The region is currently suffering from a draught—thus, poor and hungry. Peace Corps Volunteers who live in the area have been told by friends that they consider the shootings personal (because Monja Roindefo was involved). It’s not clear what any of this means or what the implications will be. Today (Monday) is a meeting in Abovembe—a Antondroy regional hub…this one is….FACT
My situation….I was told in a cryptic Peace Corps text message sent yesterday that our future here is ‘cloudier than ever’ and that they are doing further consolidations (not sure what this means—maybe moving people closer to airports??) It seems our 'waiting game' has just been extended, which only dampens our moods and adds to our frustrations.
I feel for these people—they are frustrated and have no voice. What little voice they had—through peaceful demonstrations, have now turned violent and 28 people are now dead.
God, things are definately ‘cloudy.’
I’m still safe, but my future here isn’t clear. Here are some news articles on what has been going on here.
http://english.china.com/zh_cn/news/international/11020308/20090207/15313669.html
http://news.yahoo.com/s/afp/20090208/wl_afp/madagascarpolitics_20090208210806
http://www.cnn.com/2009/WORLD/africa/02/08/madagascar.violence/index.html?section=cnn_latest
Fact or Fiction?
Why doesn’t Marc Ravalomanana have Andry Rajoelina killed or even arrested?
Good question…People say its because they are ‘related.’ Apparently Andry had a relationship with Marc’s daughter—in fact they have a child together, which means the Marc is the grandfather of Andry’s child. Andry’s been trying to gain acceptance/approval from his much wealthier and successful Father-in-law ever since (Andry was a poor no-body when he fell ‘in-love’ with Marc’s daughter—explains his determination). Friends here believe this story to be…FACT.
‘’Look how thin the President looks!’’
We heard this said last night when the President (Marc. R.) was giving a speech addressing the public about the now 28 dead and hundreds reported wounded. In fact, people have been saying that the President isn’t the President (i.e. the ‘real’ Marc R.). Marc R. is well educated and no idiot—after all he did build a national multi-million dollar dairy corporation, which he started by selling yogurt from a cart on the streets of Tana. The current Marc R. is actually his less successful younger brother, who secretly had the old Marc. R. assassinated and has taken over the role of President. Marc. R.’s younger brother did run in the Mayoral Race against Andry back in 2007 and he is still bitter about the loss—contributing to the explanation for the current situation the country finds itself in. Friends here aren’t sure about this one and are a little hesitant about claiming it to be true…….FICTION.
Stirring-up the Ethnic Pot
Andry Rajoelina appointed 43-year-old Zafitsimivalo Monja Roindefo, the son of a well-known Madagascan nationalist Monja Jaona, as prime minister of the transitional government on Saturday. Monja Roindefo and his father are Antondroy (a southern ethnic group) that represents some of the poorest people in Madagascar. The region is currently suffering from a draught—thus, poor and hungry. Peace Corps Volunteers who live in the area have been told by friends that they consider the shootings personal (because Monja Roindefo was involved). It’s not clear what any of this means or what the implications will be. Today (Monday) is a meeting in Abovembe—a Antondroy regional hub…this one is….FACT
My situation….I was told in a cryptic Peace Corps text message sent yesterday that our future here is ‘cloudier than ever’ and that they are doing further consolidations (not sure what this means—maybe moving people closer to airports??) It seems our 'waiting game' has just been extended, which only dampens our moods and adds to our frustrations.
I feel for these people—they are frustrated and have no voice. What little voice they had—through peaceful demonstrations, have now turned violent and 28 people are now dead.
God, things are definately ‘cloudy.’
Feb 3, 2009
The news today…remains unknown (its early here), but I can tell you about yesterday.
Yesterday, late in the day we got a call from Peace Corps saying that we should expect to stay at Consolidation Points until the weekend. If demonstrations remain peaceful (as they have the last few days) we will go back to site, but remain on ‘high alert.’ (this means that once at site we would need to stay in daily contact with Peace Corps). The President (the elected one) made a visit to the Ft. Dauphin airport yesterday and gave a speech, which was an opportunity to demonstrate that he is still in ‘control.’
I wrote this early yesterday, but didn’t get to post it…
1/3/09
Yes, It’s Groundhog Day….and….Yes, It’s a ‘Coup.’
So…the ‘self-proclaimed’ leader of Madagascar (ie the Mayor of Tana) is beginning to pick his team for the creation of the ‘transitional’ government he is planning to institute. He will begin a regional tour of Madagascar to energize and stimulate support. The ‘President’ (ie the elected one) is in Africa at a meeting with the African Union—the Union has his support and full backing. Schools are open today, and people are for the most part back at work. Prices are starting to increase, especially oil—cooking and automotive. We seem to be at a standstill, playing the ‘wait and see’ game. Peace Corps has told us to plan on staying at CP (Consolation points) a few more days, until they gain a little more clarity on the situation and what will happen.
I’ve been telling friends about how I use to think those ‘luxury prisons’ they send white collar criminals to were just on big joke….this situation has forced me to reexamine that opinion. This whole experience has been stressful, frustrating, and a bit torturous. The only information we get are cryptic test messages once a day telling us about how the situation is ‘calm but tense’….’remains fluid’….and we are told…’keep a low profile’….’standby’…..’Stay alert.’
NEW RULE among PCVs in Ft. Dauphin: Don’t talk about it. We have no control over our eventual outcome. Let’s enjoy the Beach!
I wrote this early yesterday, but didn’t get to post it…
1/3/09
Yes, It’s Groundhog Day….and….Yes, It’s a ‘Coup.’
So…the ‘self-proclaimed’ leader of Madagascar (ie the Mayor of Tana) is beginning to pick his team for the creation of the ‘transitional’ government he is planning to institute. He will begin a regional tour of Madagascar to energize and stimulate support. The ‘President’ (ie the elected one) is in Africa at a meeting with the African Union—the Union has his support and full backing. Schools are open today, and people are for the most part back at work. Prices are starting to increase, especially oil—cooking and automotive. We seem to be at a standstill, playing the ‘wait and see’ game. Peace Corps has told us to plan on staying at CP (Consolation points) a few more days, until they gain a little more clarity on the situation and what will happen.
I’ve been telling friends about how I use to think those ‘luxury prisons’ they send white collar criminals to were just on big joke….this situation has forced me to reexamine that opinion. This whole experience has been stressful, frustrating, and a bit torturous. The only information we get are cryptic test messages once a day telling us about how the situation is ‘calm but tense’….’remains fluid’….and we are told…’keep a low profile’….’standby’…..’Stay alert.’
NEW RULE among PCVs in Ft. Dauphin: Don’t talk about it. We have no control over our eventual outcome. Let’s enjoy the Beach!
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